椿山荘 庭園を散策/ Stroll around the Garden of Chinzanso

蠟梅・梅/ Japanese allspice・Plum blossom


椿山荘と言えば、高級ホテル、アフタヌーンティ、結婚式場と言うイメージが強いのですが、今回2度目訪れるチャンスがあり、兼ねてより江戸時代中期の画家、伊藤若冲の下絵による五百羅漢の史跡が残されていると聴いていたので(京都南郊伏見・石峰寺にあったと伝承される像高約50cm)庭園の史跡巡りをしてみました。

ホテル椿山荘東京は、最寄り駅は、江戸川橋から徒歩10分程で、目白からは少し急坂を上った丘にあります。江戸時代の浮世絵絵師、歌川広重「名所江戸百景」にも登場する、南北朝時代から椿が自生する景勝地だったようで「つばきやま」と呼ばれ、江戸時代には、久留里藩黒田家の屋敷があったそうです。明治11(1878)年には、軍人・政治家、山縣有朋が庭園と邸宅として「椿山荘」と名付けたそうです。また下記添付しました、歌川広重の版画「せき口上水端はせを庵椿やま」名所江戸百景画像は、東京伝統木版画工芸協同組合よりお借りしました。1945年大第2次大戦の空襲で、山縣の邸宅などは焼け落ち、この地を継承した実業家、藤田平太郎は、自然を愛した山縣の遺志を継ぎ、審美眼で文化財を随所に配置し、改修を重ねてそれらを守り続け、この地をガーデンレストランとして運営した後、平成25(2013)年に「ホテル椿山荘東京」は、再開されました。山縣は、文化人としても素質が高かったそうで、京都の無鄰菴、小田原の古希庵なども手掛けたそうです。 椿山荘には、歴史的な人物、明治天皇はじめ、政界の重鎮が訪れ重要な会議も開かれていたようです。この庭園は、四季折々の自然が楽しめるようになっており、この度は、寒椿に、桃、蠟梅、梅などが咲いていました。春に咲くと思われる古い桜の樹々も植えられていましたので、近辺を流れる神田川沿いも、桜の名所のようなので、春先に再訪するのも良さそうです。

 

庭園の様子は、ホテル棟正面玄関は3階ですが、地上一階に降りて外に出ると、椿山荘の碑があり、料亭を結ぶ小道に建っていますが、この碑は、山縣がこの地を気に入り入手し、椿山荘造営に着手し始めた当時を振り返り、その感慨を刻んだ碑だそうです。

 

この場所から既に、朱色の弁慶橋や、蛍沢が見えますが、元は「竹裏渓」と呼ばれ孟宗竹林の裏にあった谷に清流が流れていた場所です。この日は、お天気も良く、何組かの結婚式や、お茶会などがあったようで、着物姿の方々も多く見受けられました。「弁慶橋」からは、蛍の幻想的な光を初夏の風物詩として楽しめるとのことです。本当にこの都心で、蛍が見えるのでしょうか?

 

庭園内には、ほかにも、篁山竹林寺(たかむらさんちくりんじ)に創建されたものを起源とする、国指定有形文化財三重塔、織田有楽ゆかりの十三重の石塔、樹齢500のご神木などの史跡が数多くあり、私が、散策した場所をいくつか御紹介しますが、庭園は大変広く、奥の方へ設置されている料亭や、蕎麦処、ご神木や、白玉稲荷神社には行けませんでした。また機会があったら行ってみたい場所です。

 

椿山荘ホテル室内/ Inside of Chinzanso

弁慶橋/Benkei Bridge

五百羅漢/ historic site of the Gohyaku Rakan

庚申塔/Koshin Pagoda

幽翠池/Yousui Pond



五丈滝/ Gojo Falls

七福神/The Seven Lucky Gods

般若寺式石灯籠/Hannyaji-style stone lantern
丸形大水鉢・車石/Round large water bowl / Kurumaishi

十三重石塔/13 Storied Tower

せき口上水端はせを庵椿やま 名所江戸百景 歌川広重 版画寸法:縦340 x 横220mm

庚申塔 

寛文9年(1669年)に造られたと伝えられる、道教庚申信仰に由来する石塔。青面金剛像が彫刻されています。

 

幽翠池

山縣有朋の庭園造営当初からの池で、瓢箪型の形が特徴的です。現存する古香井や、雲錦池とともに。当時山縣公が椿山荘十勝に選定した庭園内の景勝地の一つのようです。

 

大黒天 /七福神

ホテル椿山荘東京の庭園には七福神が配置されています。最初に出会うのは、良縁をもたらす神様で、幽翠池傍で、満面の笑みで迎えてくれます。

 

五丈滝

クリスタルチャペル「ルミエール」の奥にあり、岩の段差と、苔むした岩肌が水の流れに変化をつけ、夏にはその風景と水音に涼を感じられます。

 

国指定有形文化財 三重塔「圓通閣」

平安期の歌人として名高い参議・小野篁(おののたかむら)ゆかりの寺院、広島県賀茂郡の篁山竹林寺から大正14年(1925年)に目白の森に移築されました。

 

丸形大水鉢・車石

京都府東山区粟田口から山科に通じる日ノ岡峠にあったもので、木食上人(もくじきしょうにん)・養阿正禅(ようあしょうぜん)が旅人のために造ったと伝承があります。この水鉢は、荷車である牛車の轍が刻み込まれた貴重な敷石「車石」とともに保存され、峠を越える人々がしばし牛車を停め、水鉢に溢れる清水で喉を潤したとのことです。

 

般若寺式石灯籠

鎌倉後期の逸品。江戸期の茶人や造園家の間で「名物の灯籠」の一つとして人気を得ていた「般若寺式」の石灯籠。その評判ゆえ、多くの模作が造られましたが、昭和53年(1978年)石造美術研究の権威・川勝政太郎博士により、「椿山荘(現・ホテル椿山荘東京)の灯籠が鎌倉期に作られた原作」であり、奈良県般若寺に現存するものはその写しであろうという調査結果が発表されているそうです。

 

椿山

古くは南北朝のころから椿が自生する景勝の地で「つばきやま」と呼ばれ、江戸期には有数の行楽の地であったその往時を偲び、多くの銘ある椿を植栽した一帯。山縣ゆかりの山口県萩市から贈られた椿も咲いているそうです。

 

十三重石塔

戦国時代の武将で茶人でもあった織田有楽(織田信長の弟)由縁のものと伝えられる層塔(総高4メートル76センチ)。花崗岩製で、第一層に四方仏(弥陀・弥勒・釈迦・薬師)が彫刻されています。

 

神田川/Kanda River

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Stroll around the Garden of Chinzanso

Regarding to Chinzanso, I had a strong image of a luxury hotel and a wedding hall. I had the chance to visit this time. There is also a historic site of the Gohyaku Rakan, which was drawn by Ito Jakuchu, an artist in the middle of the Edo period. I heard that (approximately 50cm tall, which once have been at Sekiho-ji Temple in Fushimi, in south of Kyoto), so I took a leisurely tour of the garden and historic sites.

 

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo is a 10-minute walk from Edogawabashi, the nearest station and it is located on a hill a little steep from Mejiro. It was also called "Tsubakiyama" because it was a scenic spot and there was a suburban residence of the Kuroda family of the Kururi domain in the Edo period. In1878 (Meiji 11), a military man and politician, Aritomo Yamagata built a garden and mansion and named it as” Chinzanso”.

 

In 1945, his residence was burned down in the air raids of World War II. Heitaro Fujita, who inherited the land, he also inherited the will of Yamagata, who loved nature. After repeated renovations to preserve its history and tradition, the mansion and its area was operated as a garden restaurant, before re-opening as "Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo" in 2013.   Aritomo Yamagata was also a highly qualified man of culture. He also worked on Murin-an in Kyoto and Koki-an in Odawara. Chinzanso has been visited by historical figures such as Emperor of Meiji and other important figures in the political world, as well as important meetings that changed Japanese politics.

 

Here we can enjoy the nature of the four seasons and this time there were tsubaki, peaches, Japanese allspice and plums in bloom. Old cherry blossom trees that are thought to bloom in the spring are also planted, so the Kanda River that flows through the area seems like a hidden cherry blossom spot, so it would be nice to revisit in early spring.

 

As for the garden, the front entrance of the hotel building is on the 3rd floor, but if we go down to the ground floor and go outside, we will find a monument to Chinzanso. It is told that this is a monument carved with Aritomo Yamagata’s feelings when he named it Chinzanso in 1878, looking back on the time when he took possession of this area and started building Chinzanso. From there, you can already see the vermilion Benkei Bridge and the firefly swamp, but the clear stream is flowing in the valley behind the Moso bamboo grove, originally called "Takeura Valley".

 

The weather was fine on this day and there seemed to be several weddings and tea parties, therefore many people were seen wearing kimonos. From "Benkeibashi", we can enjoy the fantastic light of fireflies as a feature of early summer. I wonder if we could really see fireflies in this center of city ?

 

In addition, there are many other historical sites in the garden, such as a three-storied tower that has been designated as a national tangible cultural property originating from Takamurayama Chikurinji Temple, a 13rd stone pagoda related to Uraku Oda and a 500-year-old sacred tree, as I took some photos. I would like to introduce some of the places I have explored, but the garden is very large, so I could not go to the restaurant, soba restaurant, sacred tree and Shiratama Inari Shrine in the back.

 

Koshin Pagoda 

A stone pagoda derived from the Taoist Koshin faith and it has been built in 1669. Blue-faced Kongo statue is carved.

 

Yusui Pond

This pond was originally built by Aritomo Yamagata and is characterized by its gourd-shaped shape. It is one of the scenic spots in the garden that was selected by Yamagata for Chinzanso at the time, along with the existing Kokai and Unkinike. 

 

Daikokuten/ The Seven Lucky Gods

The Seven Lucky Gods are scattered in the garden of Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo. The first thing we will encounter is the god who brings good luck in marriage and work. It is located between Yusuike Pond and welcomes us with a big smile near the pond.

 

Gojo Falls

It is located in the back of the crystal chapel "Lumière", the steps of the rocks and the moss-covered rock face change the flow of the water, and in the summer. We can feel the coolness of the scenery and the sound of the water. 

 

Nationally designated tangible cultural property Three-storied pagoda

"Entsukaku" is relocated from Takamurasanchikurinji Temple in Kamo District, Hiroshima Prefecture to the Mejiro Forest in 1925, a temple related to Ono no Takamura, a famous Heian period poet.   

 

Round large water bowl / Kurumaishi

It was located at Hinooka Pass, which runs from Awataguchi in Higashiyama Ward to Yamashina, and it seemed to have been built by Mokujiki Shonin and Yoa Shozen for travelers. This water basin has been preserved together with the precious paving stone "Kuruma-ishi", which has the ruts of an ox-cart carved into it. 

 

Hannyaji-style stone lantern

A masterpiece from the late Kamakura period. Hannya-ji style stone lanterns were popular among tea ceremony masters and landscape gardeners in the Edo period as one of the famous lanterns. Due to its reputation, many imitations were made, but in 1978,  Masataro Kawakatsu, an authority on stone art research told that “the lantern of Chinzanso “(now Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo) was made in the Kamakura period. It is the original," and research results have been announced that the existing one at Hannya-ji Temple in Nara Prefecture is probably a copy of it. 

 

Tsubakiyama

The area was called "Tsubakiyama" because of its scenic beauty, where camellias grew wild since the Northern and Southern Courts. The camellia gifted from Hagi City of Yamaguchi Prefecture, where is related to Aritomo Yamagata.

 

13 Storied Tower

This pagoda (total height of 4.76 meters) is said to have been related to Yuraku Oda (younger brother of Nobunaga Oda), who was a military commander and master of the tea ceremony during the Sengoku period. It is made of granite and the four directions of Buddha (Mida, Miroku, Shakya and Yakushi) are carved on the first layer. It is also characterized by a mixture of several types of pagodas, some of which show the style of the Kamakura period.